Switzerland for non-skiers: A winter holiday in Gstaad, Zermatt and St Moritz

I have a confession: I’ve tried so hard to enjoy skiing. Like so many of us who live in the hot, humid tropics, I’m beguiled by the idea of snow sports – the effortless glide down powdery slopes, lungs filled with the crisp bite of cold air.

What I do not love is the reality of strapping planks to my feet and launching myself downhill, armed only with the vague hope that gravity – and some undiscovered reserve of balance – will deliver me safely, and stylishly, to the bottom. After years of earnest attempts and repeated humblings, I arrived at a simple conclusion: fear is not, in fact, exhilarating – and skiing is simply not for me.

If that sounds familiar, you are hardly alone. For many travellers, especially those who did not grow up skiing or snowboarding from childhood, the romance of winter often stops just short of the ski lift. And yet winter travel remains very much our thing.

Few places understand this better than Switzerland. While its snowy reputation has long been tethered to the slopes, this impossibly picturesque country offers a far more nuanced take on the winter holiday – one that goes well beyond extreme snow sports. From frozen lakes transformed into elegant playgrounds in St Moritz to glacier walks in the Bernese Oberland, and restorative spa rituals designed to thaw both body and spirit, Switzerland proves that a snow getaway does not necessarily have to come with skis attached.

With that in mind, the question becomes: Where should a non-skier begin?

PICK YOUR MOUNTAIN GETAWAY

Switzerland’s winter resorts may share the same snow-dusted alpine scenery, but their personalities could not be more different. For those who prize understatement over spectacle, Gstaad in the Bernese Oberland is the epitome of quiet luxury. Think discreet chalets, hushed promenades and five-star hotels where the ultra-wealthy come not to be seen, but to disappear – cocooned by fireside dining and impeccable service.

St Moritz, in the canton of Graubunden, is its opposite. Glamorous and social, it leans fully into its reputation as winter’s most theatrical stage. When the town’s lake freezes over, it becomes a playground for polo matches and society gatherings, while designer boutiques along the main street offer sparkle on a whim. This is a place to dress up, promenade, and see and be seen.

Then there is Zermatt, set beneath the unmistakable silhouette of the Matterhorn. Car-free and charming, it offers a more approachable kind of luxury – cosy village energy and lively apres-ski bars – making it especially appealing for non-skiers who want the alpine atmosphere without actually having to ski.

WHAT TO DO (WITHOUT SKIS)

In Gstaad, Glacier 3000 offers high-altitude drama without demanding athletic prowess. Its headline attraction is the Peak Walk by Tissot, the world’s only suspension bridge linking two mountain peaks. It looks mildly terrifying, but it’s surprisingly secure – anchored firmly to the ice – so take the plunge and be rewarded with panoramic views that make the heart race for all the right reasons. P.S. Wear snow boots so you can walk on the snowy glacier – no skis required.

Over in Zermatt, take the cogwheel train up to the Gornergrat viewing platform for front-row views of the country’s most recognisable peak – the Matterhorn, also known as the mountain on the Toblerone packaging. For a delightfully quirky way to traverse the Alps without ever strapping on skis, set aside at least half a day for the Matterhorn Alpine Crossing. This scenic series of cable car rides carries you seamlessly from Switzerland into Italy’s Cervinia for a plate of pasta and a glass of wine. Should the mood strike, you can even continue by bus to Milan (just two hours away), turning a snow-day outing into an unexpectedly cosmopolitan detour.

Then journey onwards to St Moritz aboard the iconic Glacier Express for a cinematic voyage across the Swiss Alps. The journey stretches close to eight hours, but time becomes pleasantly irrelevant as the train glides past snow-draped peaks, deep gorges and storybook villages in a constantly shifting alpine tableau.

If possible, secure a seat in the coveted Excellence Class, limited to just 20 guests in the cabin. With a dedicated concierge and a leisurely five-course menu served at your seat, complete with wine pairings, this is slow travel at its best.

In St Moritz, nothing captures old-world winter romance quite like a horse-drawn carriage ride across the snow. Best of all, it offers a moment to retreat into your own thoughts, even as you glide – quite conspicuously, we daresay – through this glamorous town.

APRES-SKI LIKE A LOCAL

Apres-ski, loosely translated, is all the fun stuff that happens after all that hard work on the slopes. Think lingering meals, steaming hot chocolate and perfectly mixed drinks.

In St Moritz, few rituals are as satisfying as a midday pause at Bergrestaurant Trutz, perched high on the slopes with sweeping alpine views. A local favourite reached by chair lift, it serves hearty Swiss classics alongside seasonal treats such as white truffle pasta – ideal fuel for the rest of the day. Come evening, head to the grand Kulm Hotel and settle into Altitude Bar, where a well-earned digestif is often accompanied by live music.

Over in Zermatt, apres-ski leans cosy and convivial. Warm up with a fire-grilled steak at Grill Le Cervin, or make your way to Madre Nostra at the effortlessly chic CERVO Resort for polished Italian plates and some of the best people-watching in town.

RETAIL THERAPY IN THE VILLAGE

For luxury retail therapy, put both Gstaad and St Moritz at the top of your shopping list. In Gstaad, designer marques including Louis Vuitton, Prada and Hermès are tucked into chalet-style boutiques that feel residential and intimate in scale, with personalised, attentive service to match.

St Moritz, by contrast, embraces a bolder mood, with its town centre lined with fine jewellery and fashion houses including Cartier, Bulgari and Moncler, all within easy strolling distance. Browsing here can be a sporting ritual of its own, so remember to dress the part before you hit the shops

STAY AT ALPINE ADDRESSES WITH PERSONALITY

Where you retreat at night matters just as much, especially when your hotel delivers that subtle, deeply satisfying sense that says, “I have arrived.”

In Gstaad, Ultima Hotel Gstaad is designed to feel less like a hotel and more like an impeccably run private residence. It appeals to those who value privacy over pomp, with in-residence dining by its team of chefs, deeply restorative spa rituals and, this winter, a pop-up by cult Asian-fusion restaurant Zuma – bringing a buzzy social edge to an otherwise discreet alpine bolthole.

Zermatt’s Grand Hotel Zermatterhof is a masterclass in old-school hospitality done right. With its quirky, almost Wes Anderson-esque facade and a prime position in the heart of the village, it pairs classic grandeur with intuitive service that borders on uncanny. Think staff who remember your exact breakfast order from day one – and a sense of being genuinely looked after, rather than merely checked in.

In St Moritz, Grace La Margna is its most stylish contemporary address. A Small Luxury Hotel with a confident, youthful energy, it blends modern design with playful irreverence. Case in point: its ongoing collaboration with artist Pietro Terzini, whose witty, tongue-in-cheek phrases are projected onto the hotel’s facade each evening, capturing the joie de vivre that defines the town in winter.

If there is one quintessentially Swiss constant across all three, it is this: each hotel comes with a spa that takes relaxation seriously, delivering that quietly excellent, deeply soothing brand of wellness Switzerland does best.

A WINTRY URBAN ENCORE

To complement the alpine adventure, a short city break can offer a different kind of cold-weather magic. In winter, Lake Geneva takes on an ethereal, silvery sheen that flatters lakeside Lausanne beautifully. For meals with finesse, the two-Michelin-starred Pic at Beau-Rivage Palace offers elevated seasonal menus, with signatures like berlingots scented with Douglas pine that capture the festive mood. Or check out the one-Michelin-starred Jacques Restaurant, which delivers assured, produce-driven cooking in the city centre. When it gets too cold to stay outdoors, find respite at Plateforme 10, Lausanne’s cultural district, where contemporary art, fashion and photography museums provide an elegant indoor escape.

Meanwhile, Zurich goes all-in on festive cheer from late November to early January, when Christmas markets – especially around the old town and the main station – are made for lingering over a steaming mug of gluhwein. And even once the stalls pack up, the city still does winter brilliantly: hop on the Fondue Tram as the streets glow after dark, or spend an afternoon skating at the Dolder’s open-air rink. And before heading home, retreat to the exceedingly elegant Marguita at Baur au Lac – designed to evoke the atmosphere of a sunny St-Tropez bistro – for a final, polished pause before the journey continues.