Fine jewellery icons reimagined: Boucheron, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and more

From Paris to New York to Rome, the great maisons are reimagining their icons with daring creativity, technical mastery and a distinctly modern sensibility. As adaptability becomes the new frontier of luxury, fine jewellery is no longer confined to formal occasions — nor to a single “right” way of wearing it.

Leading the charge, Boucheron transforms its historic Fleche motif into fluid, gender-neutral arrow jewels that curve and coil with sculptural grace, while Tiffany & Co lets Jean Schlumberger’s beloved Bird on a Rock spread its wings into the world of fine jewellery for the first time. At Dior, the house’s iconic cannage becomes a luminous, graphic grid, and Van Cleef & Arpels captures a bloom at its most radiant instant. Cartier’s alluring Panthere de Cartier prowls once more alongside bejewelled evening bags, while Bvlgari refines the industrial genius of Tubogas for a new generation. To complete the lineup, Fred elevates its iconic Force 10 bracelet with a dazzling new buckle, set with its proprietary Hero Cut diamond for high-jewellery impact. Together, these launches show how the maisons are rewriting their own codes — making heritage wearable, versatile and deeply personal.

BOUCHERON

Creative director Claire Choisne revisits Fleche (French for “arrow”), a Boucheron house code since the 1860s. A powerful emblem that embodies love and war, as well as power and finesse, it now appears in eight iterations set in white gold and diamonds. Designed for those who navigate through life fearlessly with their own trajectory, this latest interpretation preserves the arrow’s essential character, while revolutionising its wearability. Monochrome and gender-neutral, the pieces move with the body in sculptural fluidity: arrows coil around fingers and wrists, trace the neckline with ease, and rest boldly over the heart as statement brooches.

The collection spans from delicate jewels to a dramatic XXL brooch that juxtaposes round- and baguette-cut diamonds with dramatic impact. Sculptural rings highlight versatility: one encircling a single finger in brilliant round diamonds, another spanning three fingers, marrying feather-like delicacy with geometric rigour. The technical mastery peaks in a supple necklace-and-bracelet duo, designed to be worn effortlessly without clasps, paired with streamlined hoop earrings.

BVLGARI

The Roman jeweller adds a new chapter to its iconic Tubogas, paying tribute to the 1940s technique inspired by industrial piping and created by coiling two gold strips without soldering. The latest iteration leans into day-to-night polish with three mini-hoop earrings: a sleek yellow gold pair, a bolder yellow gold version with pave diamonds, and a rose gold pave diamond version offered exclusively in China.

Additionally, two rings continue the spiral story: One in polished yellow gold and the other adorned with pave diamonds flowing along the coils. Both embody the hallmark Tubogas contour, whether in minimalist or scintillating form. Completing the line is a necklace-and-earring duo that revives the Roman jeweller’s mastery of hard stones, pairing deep black onyx and pave diamonds with high-contrast yellow gold. While the mood nods to the audacious spirit of the 1980s, the message is resolutely now: modular pieces designed to be layered, mixed and worn as personal signatures for any occasion.

CARTIER

From feline finesse to evening glamour, Cartier continues to shape contemporary elegance with its creativity and exceptional savoir-faire.

Panthere de Cartier

The latest Panthere de Cartier necklace and bracelet revive a maison signature: two animal heads in mirrored dialogue – a motif championed by creative director Jeanne Toussaint, whose 1950s bestiary still shapes the house’s feline codes. Here, twin panthers – Cartier’s emblem since 1914 – meet eye to eye, their expressions sculpted with precision, lit by emerald eyes and defined with onyx noses.

A surprisingly supple tubular structure wraps the neck and wrist beautifully, its articulation engineered for smooth, body-hugging movement. Along the curve, bezel-set diamonds glimmer like beats of light before tapering into polished yellow gold discs that heighten the sense of motion. Worn solo or paired, the duo distils Toussaint’s audacity into everyday elegance with unmistakable Cartier allure.

 Jewellery bags

Cartier adds evening glamour to its repertoire with four jewellery bags — modern riffs on its vanity cases from the Roaring Twenties. These statement pieces celebrate the maison’s creative heritage through contemporary interpretations of flora, geometry and precious materials.

The cylindrical Cabochon Clutch comes in lambskin punctuated with semi-precious cabochons of amethyst, hessonite garnet and green onyx, complete with a removable chain for versatility. Next, the spherical Godron Clutch in burgundy lambskin comes with an adjustable chain for perfect proportions. Paired with its own removable chain, The intricate Crochet Clutch, also with a removeable chain, evokes the quirky Cartier de Cactus motif through delicate crochet work that requires more than seven hours of meticulous handcrafting.

Finally, the plush Cushion Clutch reimagines the wristlet with tufted black, velvet-effect flowers set against deep-green silk satin, achieved through painstaking loop-by-loop embroidery. Each bag reveals a suede calfskin interior and closes with a gold-plated clasp topped with an onyx, hessonite garnet or obsidian cabochon.

DIOR

My Dior honours the maison’s iconic cannage through the distinctive vision of Dior Jewellery’s artistic director Victoire de Castellane. Inspired by the architectural lines of the Napoleon III chairs at 30 Avenue — which have welcomed guests to Christian Dior’s haute couture shows since 1947 — the pattern finds fresh expression in 11 new fine jewellery creations.

An intricately braided gold grid is now enhanced by a mirror-polished gold ribbon that slips beneath the mesh to catch and reflect light. Available in either full yellow or white gold, the line also features pieces with diamond accents or vivid turquoise lacquer, which add a precious, graphic edge to the jewels.

The collection boasts a diamond-paved choker, sculptural cuff, dual-finger ring, a series of bracelets and a striking single earring – all designed for modern versatility, from solo statements to layered looks. Thoughtful functionality defines the finish: the bracelets feature discreet push-button clasps that vanish into the design for a seamless line.

FRED

For nearly six decades, Fred’s iconic Force 10 bracelet has stood for boldness and the will to push beyond limits. That spirit is newly crystallised in the Force 10 Fred Hero Cut buckle, which unites the cable’s nautical DNA with the jeweller’s proprietary Fred Hero Cut diamond, introduced in 2022. Inspired by the curves of a sailboat and shield – emblems of freedom and resolve – the 0.5-carat, GIA-certified diamond features 36 facets in tribute to the maison’s founding year, 1936.

Offered in a large format dressed in pink or white gold, the interchangeable buckle is edged with pave diamond to accentuate the floating central stone, delivering The Sunshine Jeweler’s signature radiance in a piece designed for daily wear. This marriage of technical mastery and artistic vision ensures absolute flawless clarity without shadows. Radiant and refined, it brings high-jewellery gravitas to a contemporary daily essential – a compact token of determination for those who lead their own story.

TIFFANY & CO

For the first time, Tiffany’s iconic Bird on a Rock by Jean Schlumberger expands from high jewellery into the fine jewellery universe under chief artistic officer Nathalie Verdeille. The collection is divided into two distinct expressions: figurative and abstract. In the figurative line, naturalistic birds in gold, platinum and diamonds, perch solo or in pairs across necklaces, earrings, rings and pendants, their intricate textures and varied diamond settings showcasing the house’s unrivalled craftsmanship.

The abstract interpretation, Bird on a Rock by Tiffany Wings, distils the bird to its essence with scalloped, feather-like silhouettes, where hidden settings make diamonds appear to float. Designed to nest seamlessly when stacked, each piece’s scalloped edge aligns with another’s feathered curve. Bold yet refined, these creations honour Schlumberger’s love of nature’s individuality and asymmetry, becoming timeless emblems for dreamers charting their own flight path.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

The French maison’s latest Flowerlace iterations capture the instant a bloom meets sunlight. Flaunting an airy, openwork corolla in yellow gold and diamonds, the collection fuses the house’s couture-inspired codes — ribbon-like lines, curved petals and a beaded pistil — with luminous settings. Five jewels blossom in this suite: a ring, a Between the Finger ring, earrings, a pendant and a transformable clip-pendant.

Each jewel is created using the ancestral technique of lost-wax casting and hand-finished. Here, you’ll see that petals are gently domed for volume; prong tips rounded with a beading tool; and diamonds matched for maximum brilliance and scintillation. Light travels through the open structure and along mirror-polished curves to evoke nature in motion. Echoing the maison’s late-1930s Silhouette clips and the Flowerlace high jewellery suite from 2007, these creations radiate grace and everyday wearability.