What exactly is ‘beauty sleep’? How can you maximise your night-time skincare routine?
How exactly does the skin repair itself at night? Do you really need to use specific products for a better skincare routine at night?
How to maximise your skincare routine. (Photo: iStock)
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We’ve often been told that our skin protects itself during the day and repairs itself at night. It’s also why getting your "beauty sleep" is said to be very important, because that’s when our skin works hard to reverse the damage done during the day.
But how does our skin know when to do what?
The answer: Our skin’s circadian rhythm, which is governed by the presence or absence of light.
According to Dr Lynn Chiam, consultant dermatologist at Children & Adult Skin Hair Laser Clinic, this “provides the precise timing mechanism for engaging those different pathways necessary to keep a healthy skin through clock genes that are present in all skin cells”.
Dr Rachel Ho of La Clinic explained: “Trans-epidermal water loss, regeneration and repair, blood flow and skin temperature have all been shown to have circadian rhythms.”
The skin is often characterised as not only having higher skin protection abilities but also sebum production in the day, while at night, it has been found to have higher trans-epidermal water loss and permeability of the skin barrier along with greater DNA repair and cell regeneration, Dr Ho added.
It is through this “knowledge of the role of the circadian rhythm on the skin (that) recommendations can be made regarding optimal use of skincare and topical medications,” she said.
THE GOLDEN HOURS: AN OPTIMAL TIME FOR SKIN REPAIR
Taking advantage of our skin’s reparative processes at night, it’s been said that the optimal time for skin repair is between the hours of 9pm to 12am, often dubbed the “golden hours”.
According to Dr Chiam, our body’s internal clock tells us when we need to rest or sleep to recharge by releasing melatonin, a hormone that makes us tired and fall asleep. “The level of melatonin is usually raised between 9pm to 12am. Other hormones like the human growth hormone, which is involved in skin repair, also increases at night. Thus, during this period, your skin is primed to repair itself optimally,” she added.
Using skincare packed with good active ingredients will be effective, regardless of the time of application.
Herein lies the problem. Late nights out or long hours in the office might not make it possible for us to be done with our night-time skincare routine before midnight to optimise our skin’s reparative abilities. Does this mean our skin is missing out?
Don't fret, said both doctors.
Our body and skin repair themselves best when we are sleeping. So beyond applying your skincare products by midnight, it is more important to get proper sleep for our skin’s cellular repair, shared Dr Chiam. “As long as you can get a restful and uninterrupted sleep for seven hours, the application of creams even outside of these ‘golden hours’ will be beneficial.”
Dr Ho agreed and added that “sleep deprivation has been associated with reduced skin hydration, increased signs of ageing and worsening of inflammatory skin conditions, like eczema”.
So while “catching” the golden hours when the hormones affecting the skin at the optimal level may be ideal, ultimately, both doctors shared that using skincare packed with good active ingredients will be effective, regardless of the time of application.
MAXIMISING YOUR PM SKINCARE ROUTINE
That said, Drs Chiam and Ho suggested using certain ingredients for your night-time skincare routine. For instance, retinol is often advised to be used at night as it may cause skin sensitivity when used during the day.
For the best results, consider including ingredients that help the skin fight the damage from the daytime exposure to UV light, pollution, temperature and weather changes, as well as support the skin’s reparative processes.
Maximise your night-time skincare routine with the following ingredients:
- Retinol to erase signs of ageing, help with skin rejuvenation and collagen building.
- Exfoliating acids like mandelic, glycolic, lactic and salicylic, for skin renewal.
- Ceramides and niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier.
- Hyaluronic acid to hydrate the skin, especially for those with drier skins, and for that plumped and glow-y look in the morning.
5 SKINCARE PRODUCTS TO BOOST YOUR NIGHT-TIME SKINCARE ROUTINE
1. Chanel Sublimage L'Extrait de Nuit, S$1,026
A highly potent serum that uses vanilla planifolia together with other naturally derived ingredients, it boosts skin’s rejuvenation and reparative mechanisms as you sleep. In the morning, you’ll wake to a rested, radiant and refreshed appearance.
Available at Chanel Fragrance & Beauty boutiques, counters and www.chanel.com/sg/
2. L’Occitane Immortelle Divine Cream, S$193
Its improved formula now uses an immortelle super extract to address all your ageing concerns. Not only is it a plant-derived retinol alternative to reduce appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, it is also able to help erase hyperpigmentation spots too. In addition, the inclusion of the antioxidant-rich immortelle essential oil protects the skin against free radical damage.
Available at L’Occitane stores and www.sg.loccitane.com
3. Kiehl’s Ultra Pure High-Potency Serum 9.8% Glycolic Acid, S$44
An exfoliating serum that works to refine the skin texture, reducing the appearance of enlarged pores and boost skin’s glow while you’re deep in la-la-land. Plus, it’s gentle enough for even the most sensitive of skins. Skin looks smoother and even-toned in no time.
Available at Kiehl’s stores and www.kiehls.com.sg
4. Kose Infinity Premium Sleeping Pack, S$52
This overnight mask is packed with hydrating, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant-rich ingredients – azulene, blackberry lily, royal jelly and green tea extracts, as well as cnidium officinale root water, so you’ll wake to a plumped and firmer complexion.
Available at Kose counters.
5. Isdin Isdinceutics Flavo-C Melatonin Night Recovery Serum, S$40.90 (box of 10 vials)
Enriched with antioxidants like vitamin C and melatonin, it stimulates skin’s innate defences to help it combat environmental free radicals from UV rays to oxidative stress and pollution. In addition, the use of a potent anti-wrinkle extract also helps promote cell renewal for a radiant and youthful looking you.
Available at official Isdin store on www.lazada.sg
